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Saturday, November 28, 2009
Monday, November 23, 2009
Keeping your Bird(s) Warm for the Winter
Winter is upon us!! I've had many people asking me about the best ways to keep their bird warm for the winter. The questions have ranged from tents to covering cages to heated perches, so here is some info!
Heated Perches
This is fantastic technology! I have to say that the person who invented these was genius. The temperature varies up and down the perch so your bird can choose the temperature he/she would like to rest on. Protect your birds from the harmful effects of air conditioning and cold drafts in the winter!
These unique heated perches safely radiate warmth through your bird's feet. They are thermostatically controlled perch using a safe, low-voltage (12 volts) power source to maintain an optimum temperature range of 102°-107°F. They can be left on continuously, so your bird can hop onto it whenever he needs warmth. The durable textured plastic perch has irregular surfaces to reduce foot cramping and pressure sores. For safety, the steel-wrapped cord sits outside the cage.
Tents/Snugglies:
These I recommend for any bird that likes to snuggle for warmth or sleep at night. Beware the nesty female though. Tents can cause a bird to get nesty as it can simulate a nest. This, of course, depends on the bird.
I have to say, I love the Scooter Z's tents personally. Our birds like them and they are easy to clean (machine washable as well!). We always go just a bit bigger than you would think so that there is plenty of room for our birds. A bird that feels cramped in it's tent may not use it.
Preferably, the tents we like are open on both ends. They deter nestiness a bit, but also for birds like parakeets who have longer tails, they don't have to crush their tail in the back of them. Tents are a nice, safe, and warm environment, and frankly they can help protect your birds from drafts as well.
Heating your Home for your Birds:
Having a bird means taking responsibility for their environment. This may mean higher heating bills for you, but this comes with the territory of owning a bird. We typically do not allow our home to get lower than 64-66 degrees Fahrenheit, but to be frank, our home sits at 70-72 degrees throughout the winter. This is optimal for our FIDs and we don't have to worry too much about drafts.
One time, we lost power to our neighborhood and had to keep an eye on the thermostat in case it wasn't going to come back on! If the temperature had dropped below 60 degrees, we would've evacuated out our birds to a warmer location! Thankfully, the power came back on in time!
Covering your Cages at Night:
While we recommend this on a normal basis anyways, covering them at night during the winter can definitely protect your bird from those cold wintry drafts.
Not every bird takes to wearing clothing, but for some birds, avian apparel can help with warmth in the winter (not to mention the other benefits). Never force your bird to wear clothing if he/she fights with it or tries to tear it off. Your bird may need to be introduced to it first, as well. The Wrapz also provide protection against the elements of weather, and allows you to dress your Parrot accordingly for those cold winter days.
Personally, I like the idea of Parrot Wrapz for traveling your bird in the winter outside your home especially. We can't always avoid the vet during the cold winter months, and Parrot Wrapz can help keep their core warm!
© True Love Aviary 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Is Spider Web toxic to Birds?
Is Spider Web toxic to birds?
Well, this one had me a bit stumped. At first glance, I would say not. My intuition was right though. When I forwarded this question on to Dr. B, he agreed as he has never heard of a case where it was an issue. Granted, I wouldn't want my bird to go off and just eat tons of it, as who knows how that might feel in their crop and as it digested, not to mention how dirty it might be!!
The question was spurred by our YouTuber whose bird ingested a small amount that had gotten on her tail.
I would like to remind you that you wouldn't want your birds to be bitten by a spider, so I would say web without a spider is ok if your bird accidentally ingests a small amount.
Of course, there is always a bit of uncertainty in any question where not even your own vet has heard of any problematic cases. I will add a disclaimer that Dr. B mentioned: "With spiders, you don't really ever know though."
So, err on the precautious side and dust up those cob webs and check for those creepy crawly guys, and of course, a meal of all web *probably* (being facetious with the "probably" there) isn't a good idea. ;)
Monday, November 16, 2009
Sprouting for Healthier Diets
Sprouting is easier than you think. You can make your own mix of "beans" or "seeds" to sprout or you can go the easy route and get an Organic All-In-One Seed Mix.
Seeds get a bad connotation in the bird world because many uneducated bird owners don't realize that feeding your bird an all seed diet is like giving a child a Big Mac for every meal. You can imagine the effects that a diet like that can have on a human, as it is with an all seed diet for birds. However, as a sprouted diet, there really isn't a healthier alternative than sprouted seeds and beans.
They are an easy to digest food and can help with many important aspects of your birds health, including, but not limited to: healing, healthy metabolism, improving immune system function, providing antioxidants, and their anti-cancer effects.
Organic is the way to go as you avoid the potential harmful pesticides that can be found on non-organic products. Also, sprouting your own guarantees you know how old the sprouts are and how clean they are. Knowing that the source of your sprouts is you, really makes them safer for your birds and helps your sanity.
The best way to care for sprouts is to clean them everyday after they have sprouted, let them dry, and refrigerate. Don't keep them longer than 5 days, and check to make sure there aren't any weird smells to them. Fresh and safe sprouts have an earthy smell and are good to eat by not only your birds, but you as well!
We mix in sprouts in their daily diet when we have sprouts available. Our birds love them and can't get enough of them. If we leave them out on the counter, they will get demolished when we aren't looking!
Reap the benefits for yourself and your flock. You won't regret it!
How to:
© True Love Aviary 2009
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Pigwidgeon crossed the Rainbow Bridge today.
Pigwidgeon passed away today. My heart is absolutely broken. He died just the way I wanted him to though, in his tent in his sleep.
He had had a couple of rough days since the weekend, throwing up his food and the such, which isn't out of the normal since the tumor had gotten so big.
I thought of him as my invincible bird. He was a rescue from our downstairs neighbor who was moving and didn't feel like they would have room for him. When we got him over 2 1/2 years ago, his cancer was in the beginning stages and Dr. B gave him 3-6 months to live. He had really bad fatty liver disease as he had been on an awful seed diet.
Within a month of having him, we got Hedwig and that was the best thing ever for him. He was much more perky.
I took him in for a follow-up 3-4 months after his first check up, and Dr. B showed me how the tumor had progressed and gave him another 3-6 months.
However, he just kept chugging along. We did clear up that fatty liver problem and that was a very gratifying experience in not only helping his health but using him as an example of how to change over a bad diet and get a bird's health back on track. He would occasionally get really sick and then later he'd be himself perky again. In the past year or so, he's gotten a lot more cuddly and needy. He would often fly to us and cuddle with us or just hang out with us.
Funnily, when he was feeling sick, he would go in the bottom of his cage and get fluffy, and Hedwig would have none of that! She would get soooooo mad. She would go flying down there real quick and yell at him and push him back up on to his perches no matter how many times he went to the bottom. They cuddled together in their tent and she would preen him as he would also preen her. She took good care of him.
About 5 months ago, we thought we were going to lose him. He appeared to have a stroke and couldn't use one side of his body. We put him in a hospital cage and kept him warm. The next day, though, he was using both sides of his body and was himself again.
He was a character for sure. He always was getting into trouble. Whether he'd tempt fate by stealing food from the lovies or just try and hang out with them, it was always a wonderment that he didn't get more than just an occasional foot bite. He did lose the end of one toe one time when he just made a bad mistake with our lovebirds! There was blood everywhere when we had to try and get him and clean him up. Eeek. He loved to go into the babies' cages as well. Silly boy.
Rodney found him around 10am this morning. He was in his tent and had been sleeping. He slept a lot generally anyways. He went peacefully. I always said I just wanted him to go in his sleep in his tent rather than us find him in the bottom and that's the way he went. A Mother's comfort for me.
I miss him so much already. He was a joy and God gave us so much extra time with him. That was truly a blessing and I can't be more grateful for the time I had with him as well as his ability to bring light and joy into my life.
Friday, November 6, 2009
The Last of the European Clutch Goes Home: Paris
This is Nicole! She is Paris's new Mommy! First though, she had to play with the other birdies.
Apple and BeBe
Why is BeBe looking at Apple's booty, LOL?
Evee has to kiss all our guest just to make sure they feel welcomed!
Nicole's cool shirt welcoming her new baby.
She wins "The Best Dress Award" out of all our families!
Paris and NicoleSunday, November 1, 2009
Winnie advertises for us!!
Winnie just couldn't help but show off our forum to everyone! He loves the stuff he got from our E-Bird store as well... *giggle*
Friday, October 30, 2009
Our New Forum & More!
I'd just like to take this blog and "officially" announce about our new forum! Yes, True Love Aviary finally has a forum! We've spent countless hours answering your emails, YouTube messages, YouTube comments, Facebook messages, etc, and heard your pleas! So, we took it upon ourselves to finally fill your requests and made a forum. It's free, and we want you to join! It is for people who have parrots of all sizes, not just the little guys!
I'd also like to promote another awesome community that you should join as well as ours! ;) Recently, a new community called, "Avian Avenue" came on to the scene and they are awesome. We are friends with many people there and think you should join not only our community, but theirs as well.
PS thanks to all of you for your good thoughts and healing prayers towards Emma! We thought she might have to have surgery, but in the end, it's just the cast for another 8 weeks!
Friday, October 23, 2009
Paris' family & fun with our birds!
We are so happy with Paris' family! Here's a video of Nicole and Jeff playing with some of the flock here at TLA. Nicole is Paris' (the oldest of the European Clutch) new mommy! The birds were all over them even though they just met them. This video shows how sweet Apple can be. Apple is up for adoption.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Great Customer Testimonial!
This will certainly be added to our testimonial page, but I had to share!
"I just wanted to send a big "Thank You" for the excellent service I received when I placed my order with the TLA E-Store.
I placed Wednesday, September 30, 2009 @ 8:18:35 PM and by 8:30:47 PM (12 minutes) I had already received a reply from Tamara which included my order number. Within 24 hours I received a confirmation email that my order had been shipped along with a tracking number from UPS. I'm excited to say that I received my order on Monday October 5th by 2PM, even though there was a weekend in there.
Everything was wrapped securely and arrived in perfect condition. I also want to thank Rodney for his help in choosing some toys for Squeaky.
Once again "Thank You" for the prompt and friendly service. I will continue to do business with TLA and highly recommend anyone else looking for courteous, fast and friendly service to give TLA's E-Store a try!
Lynn B. and Squeaky
You guy's rock!!"
Thanks Lynn for the feedback! It means a lot! :)
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Our New Birdroom!
Board Certified Avian Veterinarian
Dr. Greg Burkett, Birdie Boutique
Dewey & Sierra
Our Breeders: Creamino x Dutch Blue Pied Peach-Faced Lovebirds
The Next Generation....
Of Bird Lovers!
Size Comparison
Each are 2 days apart (Youngest to Oldest: Left to Right)
Where People Get Their "Pet" Birds
Our Lovebird Babies!
Cute, Tame, Playful, Well-socialized!
Pepsi or Coke?
I guess Pepsi, or not Diet!
Things We Have Learned as Birdie Parents:
Recommended Reading
For good bird health:
Le Grass Cafe!
Wheatgrass provides your bird with many nutritional elements not available in other diets. It greatly enhances the health and vitality of your bird, and can even help prevent common diseases in your bird. Le Grass Café is easy to grow, and is ready to feed in approximately 4-5 days. Recommended for smaller birds, try Le Grass Café today and notice an immediate improvement in your birds health. Read more about Le Grass Café, and the benefits it provides as well as a place to purchase it: Go Here!
Toys, Playgrounds, and Foraging for Parrots
Toys and playgrounds are not an option, they are a necessity. Four general categories of toys help meet a birds needs:
1. Destructible toys that appeal to a parrot’s instinct to chew. These toys include: branches with bark, finger traps, bird candy, milled wood, chipped wood, straw, cholla, cork, leather, paper, jute, hemp, weaved palm leaves, etc.
2. Sound-related toys for the instinct to communicate. These toys include: bells, stainless-steel or nickel-plated liberty bells, metal pipe bells, plastic pipe bells, rattles, and clackers, bird music boxes, sound-repeating devices, and any toy with resonating properties from plastic, paper, or metal cups.
3. Interactive toys for the bird’s intelligence or emotional needs. These toys include: beads, puzzle toys, foraging toys, snuggling or comfort toys, hiding or peeking-out toys, surrogate enemy toys, foot toys, and mirrors.
4. Exercise toys for physical activity. These toys include: swings, appropriate perches, platforms, playgrounds or trees, and boings.
Foraging is simply the act of finding food. Very simple in definition, but great in the impact it can have on the lives of our birds. Having our parrots work for their food is one of the best stimulations that we can provide. It does not matter if you have a budgie, lovebird, amazon, or a macaw, behavior problems will diminish if a parrot has the opportunity to forage for their food rather than eating straight from a bowl. In the wild, a parrot will occupy 60%-80% of their time searching for food. During their mission, a parrot will fly, use problem-solving skills, and manipulate their environment to find that prized morsel. This is a very heart-wrenching revelation considering our parrots, according to recent scientific studies, on the average spend only 15 minutes eating from their bowls and the rest of their time waiting for us in their cage for eight hours while we are working. Our beloved birds want more and deserve more. Our feathered friends have provided richness, stimulation, beauty, and love in our lives; should we not also provide them with anything less? A parrot needs to work for their food to stimulate both body and mind; their health will reap from the benefits also. Providing foraging opportunities is more work on our part, but the rewards are far greater with the antagonists of our selfishness. As our Avian Veterinarian Dr. Burkett states, “We put them in cages, the least we can do is provide the absolute best for them.”
5. Foraging opportunities for parrots include, but are not limited to, the following: natural foods and treats such as nuts, Nutri-Berries or Avicakes; foraging toys made specifically for birds; shredded paper, paper towels, or toys in a food bowl; supervised foraging on a playgrounds, trees, toy boxes, or baskets; hiding treats wrapped in carrot leaves or dark leafy vegetables, placing food in pinecones or stuffed in children’s toys such as a small dartboard from the local dollar store; taking treats and arranging them in the cage in a sheskabob; shreddable cardboard boxes with hidden treats; wrapping treats in paper and hanging them inside the cage, perch, or playground; placing food bowls in different locations in the cage providing several feeding stations. Wrap food in paper, paper towels, or paper bags and place in some stations while leaving others empty. Then, tape the top of the feeding stations with paper, or a destructible toy, so your parrot will first have to punch through the barrier and then remove the wrapped morsel; placing food in the holes of a cholla perch or destructible toys such as finger traps; hiding food in bird safe, untreated pine toys or cardboard boxes found in a craft store; foraging trays with hidden food and toys placed on the bottom or top of cages, playgrounds, or trees; having your parrot climb a branch, rope, or chain to his food, having your parrot lift a bucket or string to retrieve his food; sticking food in plastic waffle balls, teach flight training and retrieving, and my favorite: either hiding food in your clothes, making a birdie edible necklace, or holding your parrot’s food up high so he has to climb up you to receive his treat and the rewarding positive stimulation of his favorite sound, your voice.
As you can see, foraging is only limited to the creativity of your mind. It always “cracks me up” when my lovebirds get so excited even when they just find some pellets buried under a mass of shredded paper towels. It will take you a few extra minutes a day to set up foraging opportunities and stations, but the rewards, positive stimulation, and environmental richness will last a lifetime in the lives of your beloved birds.
~Rodney Money
If you would like to use this article, just quote us as the source! That goes for any of our articles on here!
1. Destructible toys that appeal to a parrot’s instinct to chew. These toys include: branches with bark, finger traps, bird candy, milled wood, chipped wood, straw, cholla, cork, leather, paper, jute, hemp, weaved palm leaves, etc.
2. Sound-related toys for the instinct to communicate. These toys include: bells, stainless-steel or nickel-plated liberty bells, metal pipe bells, plastic pipe bells, rattles, and clackers, bird music boxes, sound-repeating devices, and any toy with resonating properties from plastic, paper, or metal cups.
3. Interactive toys for the bird’s intelligence or emotional needs. These toys include: beads, puzzle toys, foraging toys, snuggling or comfort toys, hiding or peeking-out toys, surrogate enemy toys, foot toys, and mirrors.
4. Exercise toys for physical activity. These toys include: swings, appropriate perches, platforms, playgrounds or trees, and boings.
Foraging is simply the act of finding food. Very simple in definition, but great in the impact it can have on the lives of our birds. Having our parrots work for their food is one of the best stimulations that we can provide. It does not matter if you have a budgie, lovebird, amazon, or a macaw, behavior problems will diminish if a parrot has the opportunity to forage for their food rather than eating straight from a bowl. In the wild, a parrot will occupy 60%-80% of their time searching for food. During their mission, a parrot will fly, use problem-solving skills, and manipulate their environment to find that prized morsel. This is a very heart-wrenching revelation considering our parrots, according to recent scientific studies, on the average spend only 15 minutes eating from their bowls and the rest of their time waiting for us in their cage for eight hours while we are working. Our beloved birds want more and deserve more. Our feathered friends have provided richness, stimulation, beauty, and love in our lives; should we not also provide them with anything less? A parrot needs to work for their food to stimulate both body and mind; their health will reap from the benefits also. Providing foraging opportunities is more work on our part, but the rewards are far greater with the antagonists of our selfishness. As our Avian Veterinarian Dr. Burkett states, “We put them in cages, the least we can do is provide the absolute best for them.”
5. Foraging opportunities for parrots include, but are not limited to, the following: natural foods and treats such as nuts, Nutri-Berries or Avicakes; foraging toys made specifically for birds; shredded paper, paper towels, or toys in a food bowl; supervised foraging on a playgrounds, trees, toy boxes, or baskets; hiding treats wrapped in carrot leaves or dark leafy vegetables, placing food in pinecones or stuffed in children’s toys such as a small dartboard from the local dollar store; taking treats and arranging them in the cage in a sheskabob; shreddable cardboard boxes with hidden treats; wrapping treats in paper and hanging them inside the cage, perch, or playground; placing food bowls in different locations in the cage providing several feeding stations. Wrap food in paper, paper towels, or paper bags and place in some stations while leaving others empty. Then, tape the top of the feeding stations with paper, or a destructible toy, so your parrot will first have to punch through the barrier and then remove the wrapped morsel; placing food in the holes of a cholla perch or destructible toys such as finger traps; hiding food in bird safe, untreated pine toys or cardboard boxes found in a craft store; foraging trays with hidden food and toys placed on the bottom or top of cages, playgrounds, or trees; having your parrot climb a branch, rope, or chain to his food, having your parrot lift a bucket or string to retrieve his food; sticking food in plastic waffle balls, teach flight training and retrieving, and my favorite: either hiding food in your clothes, making a birdie edible necklace, or holding your parrot’s food up high so he has to climb up you to receive his treat and the rewarding positive stimulation of his favorite sound, your voice.
As you can see, foraging is only limited to the creativity of your mind. It always “cracks me up” when my lovebirds get so excited even when they just find some pellets buried under a mass of shredded paper towels. It will take you a few extra minutes a day to set up foraging opportunities and stations, but the rewards, positive stimulation, and environmental richness will last a lifetime in the lives of your beloved birds.
~Rodney Money
If you would like to use this article, just quote us as the source! That goes for any of our articles on here!
Bird Protectors
Chances are that at least once you have been browsing through the bird section of your favorite pet store and come across a product called a "Mite Protector". You may have wondered whether or not you need this product, and if it can really be beneficial to your pet's health.
A mite is a very small parasite that can infest the skin and feathers of most animal species. Truth be told, the vast majority of birds that were captive bred and have been housed in sanitary environments never experience a problem with mites or any other external parasites.
The "Mite Protectors" are usually small disc shaped containers designed to hang on the side of a bird's cage. The discs contain chemicals that release a fume to ward off mites, fleas, and other parasites -- but the fumes can potentially be harmful to the very thing you are trying to protect: your bird!
Birds have very sensitive and specialized respiratory systems, and the fumes given off by these Mite Protectors can be harmful or even fatal to them.
If you fear that your bird is experiencing a problem with mites or any other sort of parasite, the best thing to do is to schedule an appointment with an avian vet as soon as possible. Keep your pet healthy and happy by forming a good relationship with your vet and doing plenty of research on the bird products you are interested in before you use them.
Source: The Truth About Mite Protectors
Takes after his Daddy
Making music in another way!
My Experiences Getting Birds to Trust Me
by Rodney Money
I understand exactly what it is like to want a relationship with a parrot who doesn't want one with me. When I started my life with parrots, the majority of the birds on the market were untamed, wild-caught birds. They where just stripped from their homes and shoved into small cages in a pet store. I can still see their eyes resonating with fear in my mind. The books on "taming" gave advice like restraining them in towels or holding them with gloves so you would not get bitten. Unfortunately, even books by well-known authors today give the same advice. One thing I just read from "Parrots for Dummies" is to towel your birds and scoop them up placing them on your knees. It sounds like good advice, but it isn't. Every time I had to towel a bird, they were breathing heavily in a panic. Would this work on people or even a cat or dog? No. Cats and dogs are so called "domesticated," (even though I could argue with that!) but birds are not domesticated animals. They live by a code: flight or fight when it comes to defending themselves to live another day. In my experience with all types of species with parrots, I have discovered this one thing about taming parrots: you don't tame a bird; you get them to trust and love you.
I have worked with one of the most dangerous birds in the entire world. It was a Greater-Sulfur Crested Cockatoo named Louie. Louie was 20 years old and caught from the wilds of
I placed his cage in a soothing part of the house and at night I placed him in my bedroom. Birds sleep with their flock not predators. If a bird sees you sleeping they will see that you are not out to get them. This makes a big difference compared to you leaving them for 8-12 hours alone at night in another room and then invading their territory (the cage) in the morning. In the wild, lovebirds constantly watch out for predators or invaders from other birds in their space. When you got your lovebird, did you first hold him a lot, and then miss a few days letting him entertain himself in his cage? Lovebirds and other parrots need daily interaction so they will not only stay sweet, but also form a bond with their human. They need to feel like they need their human, their mate. If you leave the bird in its cage, he feels that he has no use for you. So, when he sees people he thinks of one thing: to defend his territory from an invader. What would we do if a strange person invaded our homes? We would freak out also. That’s what your lovebird is doing; simply defending his territory.
Evee, our 7 month old Dutch Blue started becoming very independent when he discovered his security with flight. He was like, “Why do I have to step-up when I can just fly to where I want to go? And right now, I don’t want you.” So we clipped his wings and now he loves coming to us; even when we don’t want him to sometimes. He will flutter or climb to us from his playpen. Now that he is getting his wings back, he flies to us instead of away. Clipping wings is an attitude adjustment for lovebirds. After Angel got her wings clipped, she let children pet her. Evee will defend his cage after we put him to bed at
So don’t let your lovebird ever have a reason to bite and if she does, show no reaction. Some people say tell the bird no and place it back into its cage, but that is what the bird wants in the first place. Your lovebird needs to know that its territory is not only his cage, but also in the safe parts of your house. A playpen or food and toys on top the cage will give your lovebird something to look forward to when he is out of his cage. While you are supervising him, open the cage door. If he doesn’t come out, simply take the bottom of the cage off and turn the cage upside down. Lovebirds and other parrots naturally climb up. When he comes out, see if you can slowly turn the cage right side up again while he is climbing to get right side up. Then open his door again so if he wants to, he can go back to his cage. While he is on top of the cage, give him lots of toys, food, and bathing opportunities so he can have something to do while he is on top of his cage. Remember, he needs to know that there is life outside of his cage, and that the world is fun also. If he flutters off his cage don’t go chasing after him (that is what predators do!). Either place his cage near him so he can climb up, lay down on the floor, or sit Indian style to see if he will climb on you. If he isn’t too freaked out, let him explore your home. Place some food and toys on the floor; make his world fun for him, not scary. This step might be too soon for his needs and nerves. But the goal is for him to know that his only world is not just his cage, but also you, your home, and even life outside your door. Maybe you need to start from ground zero like we did for our breeders Dewey and Sierra.
Also, here is another technique: when your baby calms down enough to perch on a T stand you could start clicker training. It is like playing a child’s game like “Hot and Cold.” Simply lay your hand on the stand on the opposite side of your lovebird. Show a treat in the direction of your lovebird. If he takes even one step, click, praise, and give him a small treat. If he doesn’t move in the direction of your arm/ hand, simply do nothing (completely ignore him). Try again keeping lessons to only 15 minutes. This is how I trained Louie after I got him to trust me in the same fashion as Dewey and Sierra. If he is bonded to his cage, his reaction is a very normal behavior. Also, lovebirds like other parrots go through a challenging adolescence stage where they challenge their humans, flock, and everything around them.
(c) Copyright Rodney Money 2008 (email for permission to use!)
The Secret of Not Getting Bit By a Hormonal, Territorial but Very Cute Female Lovie
Sierra and Dewey* If your lovebird's bites do hurt the first thing you need to do is check that beak. It might simply just need grooming. It's the difference between a a person with sharp fingernails and well-groomed rounded ones. Lovebirds that need grooming will have little points on the side of their beaks that look like little vampire teeth. So sometimes, your little girl might not mean to bite you hard, it's just her beak is way too sharp.
* Establish a basic routine so surprises can be minimal. Even monthly adventures out of the home or trips to the vet become part of the routine. Routine also teaches a bird confidence. A girl with no confidence will bite quicker than a bird that is secure with her place within the flock; even if it’s just the two of you.
* Teaching tricks, having jobs, and clicker training will keep her mind sharp and she will view you as the flock leader. Birds who know tricks live to please their owners and their rewards.
* Make her forage for her food, giving her a job other than breeding.
* People feed their birds way too much. Giving a bird enough food for all day long is not natural. Birds in the wild: wake-up, fly to the feeding grounds, let their crops empty, and then fly to find more food. My birds have the same routine. They wake-up, play, then fly to their cages to eat breakfast, morning nap, play, afternoon nap, play, eat supper, short evening nap, play, go to bed at 7:30. Birds need a reason to want to go back into their cages either for food, private play, or rest.
* I am at the top of the pecking order, and my birds know it. Be bold and handle them with confidence and with rules. Our babies such as Luna, Sapphire, Mango, Starburst, and Skittles are very bold birds who can run their entire household if given a chance. When we baby sat them, they quickly learned that they can not act like they do at home. When their owners return after vacation, we show them tricks on how not to let your lovebird run your household. For example: they feed the bird way too much thus not having her to look forward to going back into her cage (I never have to chase a bird around the house to get them back into the cage), if you are holding two birds in or on your hands, hold the one you trust more at a higher level than the other. Teach the bird you are not a human playground, and you are not here to tend to their every little need and want. Not letting the bird do what they want all the time, and making them stay on your hand if that’s what you expect.
* I don’t expect to get bitten. The thought never enters my mind. You have already failed even before you have started if you think about bites. Birds can read your body language and it seems as though they can read your thoughts. My middle school music students can play compositions at a high school, lower college level because I have taught them confidence. BTW my students who have birds have never been bitten by their birds either. My birds know the “up” command, and I see nothing wrong with it. It is not forcing a bird when the bird wants to come to you anyways. With smaller birds I let them in the palms of my hands. I have seen the boldest lovebirds return to little babies by using this simple technique.
* Don’t give her the opportunity to bite, ever. In my humble experiences, biting for the most part is a learned response. The more a bird gets to bite, the more she gets to practice, and the more a bird practices the more comfortable they feel using biting to their advantage. If they bite in the cage, let them come out, if they can not be trusted in your clothes or shoulders, don’t let them in there. It’s that easy. Sierra loves to go in my clothes, but I do not let her. Also, Sierra does not use her beak anymore and has completely forgotten how to bite humans.
* Birds should have rules. I might clean their poop all day, but I am not their human slave. Only have them stay on the hand if that’s the only place you can trust them. If they bite your hand, let them only stay on your arm. Our breeders use to be scared of hands, so I had them step-up on my arm while I hid my fingers and thumb by making a soft fist. If they go anywhere else, place them back on their cage or a playground without saying a word. If she is on your hand/ arm and tries to move up, place your other hand like a high five right in front of her. This has stopped my birds in their tracts. If she tries to bite your high five hand, it is ok for you to move your hand slightly that she is standing on to distract her from trying to bite. If she knows tricks, then distract her with one of her tricks. If she continues to not follow the rules, place her on her cage or a playground without saying a word.
* Sometimes you just need to let a bird be a bird. Why does the bird have to be on you for them to be happy? Just let them play on or in their cage, or a playground, look for food, or simply interact with other birds. I very rarely go up to my birds and have them step-up on me. They play and when they want me, they fly to me. When they are finished interacting with me, they fly back into the bird room. When I actually have them step-up, they see it as Christmas and are more willing.
* Playgrounds are not an option. If she has a reason to come out of her cage, then she might have a reason to interact with you also. Also, if she is in breeding mode, let her out of that cage. Get her mind off nesting and out of the nest box, her cage.
* Let other birds teach her how to be a part of the flock. The other birds will teach her how to act around people also. Females tend to be on their best behaviors when they are not alone while on the human.
* Everything should be positive including you coming to the cage, them going back into the cage, them being on you, them being off you.
* People talk too much to their birds and get them way too excited. I have seen my lovebirds have a complete conversation from body language alone. I am actually very quiet around my flock, but when I do say something they listen closer to what I have to say. I have seen too many people talk too much baby talk to their birds and it gets them way to excited to the point where they can not even control themselves. It’s like making a child hyper because they feed off your energy. Also, your female might think you are courting her with all that “singing.”
* Withhold their favorite treat for only special occasions such as trick training, going back to the cage, or checking the nest box. When we check for babies we have conditioned our pairs to see our presence in a positive light. We gently tap the top of the nest box which is their cue to step-out and go to their food bowls. We place seed or millet in their bowls, place a napkin in the nest box's hole, and continue to check their babies. After we remove the napkin, the parents return with a full crop to feed their baby some much needed energy and fat stored in the seeds.
* Clicker training: First click and then give her a treat showing her that the clicker is a promise for reward. Once she understands this, you can move forth to basic and then advanced training. If the female is not interested in stepping-up readily, lure her with her favorite treat and make her lean for it forcing her to walk on your hand. When she does something you like, "Click and Treat." It's like playing a game of hot and cold. If she is hot, click and treat, if she is cold do nothing. Here is a video of Piper and Bailey, Trinkets grandparents!
* Be careful you are not pushing her to do too much. Open beak stance, with possible swaying, is not a good thing. She probably feels threaten and unsure with your presence. Put her in a place in the home where she can see the family activities and get used to your presence. Do not sneak up on her or surprise her accidentally frightening her. Hold her in the palm of your hand if possible. Your palm is warm and soothing to birds, plus they feel that they are back in the nest.
* Concerning cage placement, shy and nervous birds benefit with having one or two sides of the cage being next to a wall. The best thing we ever did for Cody and Mia was placing their cage near the corner of the bird room. Their confidence has grown to new levels since then and they interact with us more.
* Never ask her to step-up with just one finger. You might as well be pointing rudely to her just like if you were pointing at a person. Either use the open palm technique or ask her to step-up while your hand is in a horizontal 4 pattern parallel to her body. When she first starts her baby molt, she will most likely start rubbing her head gently on your fingers. Then you can start by preening her head with the fingers on the hand that she is standing on. This is how you teach small birds to enjoy being preened. If she allows touching already, place your chin on her back. Even with my adult birds, when they are in the palm of my hand I will place my chin on their back then kiss their little heads. This is a very soothing motion to babies because this is what Mommy bird does with her beak in the nest to soothe her little ones.
* Between three and four months your lovebird will go through a beaking phase. It is very much like a teething stage in infants, but it doesn’t hurt. This stage has its pros and cons. It is a great time to introduce new foods and toys, but baby will also start to beak your fingers. Never let him have the chance to develop this habit or he will carry it out for the rest of his life. As soon as he starts to beak your fingers, place a chewable toy such as Bird Candy or Chinese Finger Traps in his mouth. He is looking for negative attention. Simply ignore him with no reaction, calmly say no, and give him something to demolish. You have to explain this to other people visiting your bird also; even if they say they don’t mind the nibbling. The nibbles will turn to bites after six months of age if you don’t intervene then. Lovebirds are as smart as a two year-old child; they will test you. With some discipline and consistency from your part, your baby will pass this testing stage in less than a month.
* It's alright to get females mates. A tame male will teach the female how to be tame also. She will follow his lead.
* Females are not being mean; they are trying to be great mothers. Once we understand that, we will be able to live a more peaceful coherence together. Know when she will bite, and stay 2 steps ahead of her not letting her “practice” biting.
Feeding Schedule and Socialization Goals
Growth Progression of a Baby Lovebird
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