True Love Aviary: Jewel Babies to the Vet

Welcome!!!

Our mission is to help bird owners of all types of parrots make a better life for their FIDs (Feathered Kids). We know that a happy & healthy bird makes for the best relationship you can have with your bird!

We are the owners of an awesome E-Bird store (stuff for all birds of all sizes!) and Lovebird Aviary and in which we raise and sell lovebirds in Winston-Salem, NC. Our birds are quite popular because of their temperaments and socialization. Our dear Angel passed away on July 30th, 2007. We have two pairs of breeders now, so a variety of colors are available. If you are looking for the sweetest lovebirds to become a part of your family.... you've found them! Contact us for more info.

About our lovebirds:

*They are pulled from the nest box at ~14 days old.

*Handfed by us with Roudybush Handfeeding Formula.

*Fully weaned and vet checked by a Board-Certified Avian Veterinarian before sold. The vet check is included in the adoption fee.

*Fed only the best: Nutriberries, Avicakes, Roudybush Crumble, Crazy Corn, Beak Appetit, & a mixture of fruits/veggies/sprouts/wheatgrass.

*Sold only as pets. We do not sell them for breeding as they are tame and well-socialized for human interaction!

*When you adopt from us you get (on top of having a vet-checked bird) a care package that includes: a birth certificate, a handmade toy, extra shredables, a week's worth of food/treats, as much time as you need the day you come and pick up your baby for questions & explanations, the ability to come in and play with your baby before they wean, a care guide, and a 15-20+ year relationship with us (if you want it) for questions, help, and products.

*We do not ship, but you can come to us! Our babies have gone home to a variety of places (check out the side bar item: Where have our lovie babies gone to live?).

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Jewel Babies to the Vet

They aren't sure they want to go, but they look really cute here!

Sapphire getting her eyes checked.

Sapphire has a good heart.

Ruby has a healthy heart too!

Everything looks good in there, Ruby!

Clear, bright eyes for Opal!

Opal has a good heart like the others!

Good eyes for Pearl!

Pearl is a sweet heart with a strong, healthy heart!

Opal's nails getting done.

Pearl's nails getting done.

Sapphire's nails getting done.

Ruby's nails getting done.

Haha! Ruby blinked! They were watching Sapphire getting her nails done.

Whoever said Dr. B doesn't like lovebirds, obviously hasn't seen him with our babies!

Or at least, Dr. B tries not to let it show.... hehehehe! He kissed them afterwards too!

Dr. Burkett loves seeing our healthy babies!
They're ready to go home now!

5 comments:

Ginger said...: I want all of them!!!; February 28, 2008 9:30:00 AM PST
Tamara said...: Hehehehe! They are super cute.; February 28, 2008 9:49:00 AM PST
jenntoniic said...: That first picture is SO ADORABLE! Your babies are the cutest things I've ever seen! I wish I could take one of the Jewel babies home :); February 28, 2008 12:20:00 PM PST
Andrea said...: aww i want to come over and play with the pretty birdies!!; February 28, 2008 7:49:00 PM PST
Tamara said...: Come over then!!!; March 3, 2008 9:07:00 PM PST

Where People Get Their "Pet" Birds

by Rodney Money

Here are the options in the USA where people get their pet birds. I did not include shelters and second hand opportunities though; just where you would be more likely to find a parent-raised or handfed baby. Also, I will explain their level of tameness of the birds, care, the knowledge of the people who either work or run the establishments, and any other thing I can think of.

1. Large, retail petstore chains: (ex. Petsmart, Petco, Pet Supermarket, and other franchises, etc.)
This is the absolute worst place you could find a bird to call your own. Both Petsmart and Petco get their birds from the Kaytee Preferred Birds program which has two facilities located in Florida. They are also establishing one in Las Vegas. Of the two in Florida, one handles parent-raised small birds such as finches, budgies, and lovebirds which they buy from various mass production breeders, and one that mass produces larger parrot species for intention of handfeeding. All the breeders and babies are fed a medicated diet that includes vitamins and minerals, as well as antibiotics including Doxycycline for bacteria growth. The great use of these antibiotics will weaken the immune system and make the future successful use of antibiotics questionable. Kaytee does not care about the emotional development of their birds since they already have a contract with Petsmart and Petco stating they need to produce a quantity of chicks and not a quality of chicks to keep up with the high demand of sales. All the birds are shipped from Florida or Las Vegas, so you might as well be buying a wild-caught bird from Africa, Central and South America, or Australia. These birds are then quarantined for three days or put out on the floor when stock gets low. The stock room where the birds are quaranteed is a poorly lit dungeon only having human contact during feeding and cleaning. When at the store the birds are fed a very poor seed diet which leads to fatty liver disease and death (so with their weak immune systems, the stress of being shipped, and fatty liver disease, people wonder why their parakeet from Petsmart died in just a week?) The birds when placed out on the floor, especially the smaller birds, are cluttered together in cages with improper food, perches, and little to no toys. The so-called "experts" are usually teenagers in High School or college who could not tell the difference between a cockatoo and a macaw. The only time the birds are handled is if a customer is interested, because the employees and their employers do not want to risk damaging their merchandise. Handfed babies are fed Kaytee Exact Handfeeding formula which is hard to digest in the bird's crop. Employees and Employers are not worried about socialization of the babies; their only concern is to feed them as quickly as possible so they can bag up more fish, the true highest profitable merchandise, for customers. The only way to stop this travesty of mass production of chicks is education to the public to stop buying birds at retail pet centers.

2. Local Small Business-owned Pet Stores:
The knowledge of the staff varies greatly depending on the expertise of its people. Even with a very knowledgeable and educated staff, it is near to impossible to socialize each and every bird and care for their emotional needs. Employers and Employees have their minds preoccupied with cleaning cages, feeding birds, stocking, handling accounts, and simply dealing with customers; because first and foremost, it is a business. Many pet stores handfeed their own babies, but even the best bird stores forget that they need to continue socialization and establish a constant routine of playtime after they wean. Pet stores is where I see the vast majority of sweet, handfed babies turn wild after weaning.

3. Large-scaled Breeders:
Very similar to the suppliers of babies to the large retail pet chains. Large-scaled breeders mass produce large amount of babies for profit. So unless they have a staff that dedicates their entire time to feeding, playing, and socialization, the emotional needs just can not be met simply due to the sheer numbers of birds. These breeders are contracted to pet stores, other breeders for future stock, and other clients to provide a quantity of birds for future or present profit. Not all large-scaled breeders have inhumane practices. Steve Hartman of Hartman Aviaries and Gail Worth of Aves International not only care about their babies, but also the wellbeing of their parents also. Large-scale breeders also have the means to establish breeding stocks that could develop the possible domestication of parrots through line breeding. Also, mutations and other genetic changes could be studied in a more controlled environment.

4. Small-scaled Breeders (like us):
Many of these breeders are hobbyists, though some can make a living and breed for profit. These breeders tend to have a intimate relationship with each baby that they raise. This intimacy could lead in studies of developing co-parenting. Personally, I believe that this is the best place to find a new, loving feathered family member as long as the breeders breed in a moral way with not only thinking of the wellbeing of their babies, but also their parents. Small-scaled breeders tend to keep their pairs within their homes unlike large-scaled breeders who breed in either large flight aviaries or warehouses.

Things We Have Learned as Birdie Parents:

1. Close the lid of the toilet. (It is not fun reaching in and grabbing your bird out. Then torturing them with a bath.) 2. Do not turn on the ceiling fan when your flighted birds are out. 3. Put birds away while cooking, mixing batter, etc (esp. Chocolate... can cause panic attacks when they accidentally fly into it as well as getting chocolate every where when you grab them out and rush them to a bath!). 4. Do not kiss your birds after eating chocolate and guacamole. 5. Do not kiss your birds after they eat hot peppers. 6. Yogurt, milk, and dairy products are not good for them. 7. Neither is high salt and high sugar food items. 8. Never let your bird eat off your plate unless you don't mind them bothering you every time from there on after. 9. Do not take "naughty" pictures of your breeder birds. You will feel guilty later for interrupting them. 10. It's good to cover your bird's cages at night. Just not with plastic. 11. Set routines with your birds. Creates confident and secure birds. 12. Play with your birds everyday! 13. Do not go outside with your bird unprotected! 14. Set boundaries/rules with your bird (or they'll act like little teenagers). 15. Learn as much as you can about a species before and after obtaining your new family member. 16. Make sure your vet is "Avian Board Certified." (See Dr. Burkett at Birdie Boutique!) 17. Join a bird club. They understand it when they get pooped on or bitten! (Online chat/message boards are good, too) 18. Playgrounds and toys are a necessity, not an option. 19. Do not feed your bird only seed. It is fatty and not good for their health and plummage (see photos of our birds for proof). 20. Birds need sunlight for their health and plummage. 21. Socialize your birds with other people. 22. Do not keep poisonous plants in your home. If you're not sure use fake plants for greenage. 23. Be careful if you let your birds loose around the house. Be aware of where they are at all times (not to step or sit on them). 24. Do take your birds in the shower with you. (They don't care how you look!). Clean their cages daily (it makes it easier than once a week)! 25. Love your birds. Spoil them. Hold them. Don't yell or hit them. A little bird poop never hurt anyone!

Toys, Playgrounds, and Foraging for Parrots

Toys and playgrounds are not an option, they are a necessity. Four general categories of toys help meet a birds needs:

1. Destructible toys that appeal to a parrot’s instinct to chew. These toys include: branches with bark, finger traps, bird candy, milled wood, chipped wood, straw, cholla, cork, leather, paper, jute, hemp, weaved palm leaves, etc.

2. Sound-related toys for the instinct to communicate. These toys include: bells, stainless-steel or nickel-plated liberty bells, metal pipe bells, plastic pipe bells, rattles, and clackers, bird music boxes, sound-repeating devices, and any toy with resonating properties from plastic, paper, or metal cups.

3. Interactive toys for the bird’s intelligence or emotional needs. These toys include: beads, puzzle toys, foraging toys, snuggling or comfort toys, hiding or peeking-out toys, surrogate enemy toys, foot toys, and mirrors.

4. Exercise toys for physical activity. These toys include: swings, appropriate perches, platforms, playgrounds or trees, and boings.

Foraging is simply the act of finding food. Very simple in definition, but great in the impact it can have on the lives of our birds. Having our parrots work for their food is one of the best stimulations that we can provide. It does not matter if you have a budgie, lovebird, amazon, or a macaw, behavior problems will diminish if a parrot has the opportunity to forage for their food rather than eating straight from a bowl. In the wild, a parrot will occupy 60%-80% of their time searching for food. During their mission, a parrot will fly, use problem-solving skills, and manipulate their environment to find that prized morsel. This is a very heart-wrenching revelation considering our parrots, according to recent scientific studies, on the average spend only 15 minutes eating from their bowls and the rest of their time waiting for us in their cage for eight hours while we are working. Our beloved birds want more and deserve more. Our feathered friends have provided richness, stimulation, beauty, and love in our lives; should we not also provide them with anything less? A parrot needs to work for their food to stimulate both body and mind; their health will reap from the benefits also. Providing foraging opportunities is more work on our part, but the rewards are far greater with the antagonists of our selfishness. As our Avian Veterinarian Dr. Burkett states, “We put them in cages, the least we can do is provide the absolute best for them.”

5. Foraging opportunities for parrots include, but are not limited to, the following: natural foods and treats such as nuts, Nutri-Berries or Avicakes; foraging toys made specifically for birds; shredded paper, paper towels, or toys in a food bowl; supervised foraging on a playgrounds, trees, toy boxes, or baskets; hiding treats wrapped in carrot leaves or dark leafy vegetables, placing food in pinecones or stuffed in children’s toys such as a small dartboard from the local dollar store; taking treats and arranging them in the cage in a sheskabob; shreddable cardboard boxes with hidden treats; wrapping treats in paper and hanging them inside the cage, perch, or playground; placing food bowls in different locations in the cage providing several feeding stations. Wrap food in paper, paper towels, or paper bags and place in some stations while leaving others empty. Then, tape the top of the feeding stations with paper, or a destructible toy, so your parrot will first have to punch through the barrier and then remove the wrapped morsel; placing food in the holes of a cholla perch or destructible toys such as finger traps; hiding food in bird safe, untreated pine toys or cardboard boxes found in a craft store; foraging trays with hidden food and toys placed on the bottom or top of cages, playgrounds, or trees; having your parrot climb a branch, rope, or chain to his food, having your parrot lift a bucket or string to retrieve his food; sticking food in plastic waffle balls, teach flight training and retrieving, and my favorite: either hiding food in your clothes, making a birdie edible necklace, or holding your parrot’s food up high so he has to climb up you to receive his treat and the rewarding positive stimulation of his favorite sound, your voice.

As you can see, foraging is only limited to the creativity of your mind. It always “cracks me up” when my lovebirds get so excited even when they just find some pellets buried under a mass of shredded paper towels. It will take you a few extra minutes a day to set up foraging opportunities and stations, but the rewards, positive stimulation, and environmental richness will last a lifetime in the lives of your beloved birds.

~Rodney Money

If you would like to use this article, just quote us as the source! That goes for any of our articles on here!

Bird Protectors

We DO NOT recommend these for your birds!!!!!!!!

Chances are that at least once you have been browsing through the bird section of your favorite pet store and come across a product called a "Mite Protector". You may have wondered whether or not you need this product, and if it can really be beneficial to your pet's health.

A mite is a very small parasite that can infest the skin and feathers of most animal species. Truth be told, the vast majority of birds that were captive bred and have been housed in sanitary environments never experience a problem with mites or any other external parasites.

The "Mite Protectors" are usually small disc shaped containers designed to hang on the side of a bird's cage. The discs contain chemicals that release a fume to ward off mites, fleas, and other parasites -- but the fumes can potentially be harmful to the very thing you are trying to protect: your bird!

Birds have very sensitive and specialized respiratory systems, and the fumes given off by these Mite Protectors can be harmful or even fatal to them.

In fact, these products can pose just as big a health risk to pet birds as cigarette smoke, aerosol sprays, or non-stick cookware.

If you fear that your bird is experiencing a problem with mites or any other sort of parasite, the best thing to do is to schedule an appointment with an avian vet as soon as possible. Keep your pet healthy and happy by forming a good relationship with your vet and doing plenty of research on the bird products you are interested in before you use them.

Source: The Truth About Mite Protectors

My Experiences Getting Birds to Trust Me

by Rodney Money

I understand exactly what it is like to want a relationship with a parrot who doesn't want one with me. When I started my life with parrots, the majority of the birds on the market were untamed, wild-caught birds. They where just stripped from their homes and shoved into small cages in a pet store. I can still see their eyes resonating with fear in my mind. The books on "taming" gave advice like restraining them in towels or holding them with gloves so you would not get bitten. Unfortunately, even books by well-known authors today give the same advice. One thing I just read from "Parrots for Dummies" is to towel your birds and scoop them up placing them on your knees. It sounds like good advice, but it isn't. Every time I had to towel a bird, they were breathing heavily in a panic. Would this work on people or even a cat or dog? No. Cats and dogs are so called "domesticated," (even though I could argue with that!) but birds are not domesticated animals. They live by a code: flight or fight when it comes to defending themselves to live another day. In my experience with all types of species with parrots, I have discovered this one thing about taming parrots: you don't tame a bird; you get them to trust and love you.

I have worked with one of the most dangerous birds in the entire world. It was a Greater-Sulfur Crested Cockatoo named Louie. Louie was 20 years old and caught from the wilds of

Australia

. He was purchased by a man for breeding only. When the breeder decided to no longer breed birds, he stripped Louie of his mate, shoved him in a dark basement, and fed him nothing but wild bird seed and dog food. When I got him he was so scarred that he screamed every time I approached his cage. The scream of a cockatoo is deafening and rips straight to the heart. If Louie were to bite me, I knew for a fact that it meant a trip to the hospital. Because of the structure of the beak, a cockatoo’s bite is worse than a macaws. Louie was a biter not a flier. The first thing that I did for Louie was clip his wings, nails, and got his beak groomed Even though I know how to do all this, I did not do it myself so he would not have the grudge with me. I had my vet do it so it would seem like I came to his rescue when it was over. (We still do this for my lovebirds, and they come just a running back to their mom and dad.) After the grooming, I bought him a playpen to go on top of his cage so he would eventually have something to do while he was out of the cage.

I placed his cage in a soothing part of the house and at night I placed him in my bedroom. Birds sleep with their flock not predators. If a bird sees you sleeping they will see that you are not out to get them. This makes a big difference compared to you leaving them for 8-12 hours alone at night in another room and then invading their territory (the cage) in the morning. In the wild, lovebirds constantly watch out for predators or invaders from other birds in their space. When you got your lovebird, did you first hold him a lot, and then miss a few days letting him entertain himself in his cage? Lovebirds and other parrots need daily interaction so they will not only stay sweet, but also form a bond with their human. They need to feel like they need their human, their mate. If you leave the bird in its cage, he feels that he has no use for you. So, when he sees people he thinks of one thing: to defend his territory from an invader. What would we do if a strange person invaded our homes? We would freak out also. That’s what your lovebird is doing; simply defending his territory.

Evee, our 7 month old Dutch Blue started becoming very independent when he discovered his security with flight. He was like, “Why do I have to step-up when I can just fly to where I want to go? And right now, I don’t want you.” So we clipped his wings and now he loves coming to us; even when we don’t want him to sometimes. He will flutter or climb to us from his playpen. Now that he is getting his wings back, he flies to us instead of away. Clipping wings is an attitude adjustment for lovebirds. After Angel got her wings clipped, she let children pet her. Evee will defend his cage after we put him to bed at 7:30-8:00 even though we taught him to step-up from inside her cage since he was a baby. But after bed time, we know not to mess with him. We do not give him the opportunity to bite. We simply kiss him goodnight, tell her we love him, place him in his cage and he scurries into his tent, and leave him alone. When he is having out of his cage time during the day, we do not force head rubs on him, he lets us know by nuzzling his head between our fingers. Since we don’t force him to do anything, he has no reason to ever bite us. And because of that, he is one of the sweetest little lovebird boys ever. He will also let strangers and children hold him. The only reason we even had an issue with Evee is because he is the runt of our flock. The other lovebirds are larger than him so he naturally has to have a way to defend himself. Our other birds have established their status in the flock so they do not have to resort to biting as much as Evee. Evee then carried that biting to his human part of the flock as well. Now, we don’t give Evee a chance to bite. We always stay two steps ahead of him and know the situations when he will most likely bite. If he does bite, I show no reaction at all. If there is a reaction, then a bird will know it needs to bite more often to get what it wants.

So don’t let your lovebird ever have a reason to bite and if she does, show no reaction. Some people say tell the bird no and place it back into its cage, but that is what the bird wants in the first place. Your lovebird needs to know that its territory is not only his cage, but also in the safe parts of your house. A playpen or food and toys on top the cage will give your lovebird something to look forward to when he is out of his cage. While you are supervising him, open the cage door. If he doesn’t come out, simply take the bottom of the cage off and turn the cage upside down. Lovebirds and other parrots naturally climb up. When he comes out, see if you can slowly turn the cage right side up again while he is climbing to get right side up. Then open his door again so if he wants to, he can go back to his cage. While he is on top of the cage, give him lots of toys, food, and bathing opportunities so he can have something to do while he is on top of his cage. Remember, he needs to know that there is life outside of his cage, and that the world is fun also. If he flutters off his cage don’t go chasing after him (that is what predators do!). Either place his cage near him so he can climb up, lay down on the floor, or sit Indian style to see if he will climb on you. If he isn’t too freaked out, let him explore your home. Place some food and toys on the floor; make his world fun for him, not scary. This step might be too soon for his needs and nerves. But the goal is for him to know that his only world is not just his cage, but also you, your home, and even life outside your door. Maybe you need to start from ground zero like we did for our breeders Dewey and Sierra.

Before we got breeders, Tamara said they had to be tame. Even though I tried to explain to her that breeders could not be pets, especially with babies. So, I took up the challenge. Dewey and Sierra were five years old and mature parent raised birds; this was going to be fun. I started by letting them out of their cages to get them familiar with us and being around their new home. We did not try to touch them or even hold them. If they wanted to fly around (we will never clip their wings because they can fly in their cage), go back to their cage (we left the door open), or even land on us they could. We let them have fun exploring. Dewey and Sierra have always been afraid of hands and fingers. When I placed my hand in their cage to change their food and water they would freak out (sound familiar?). So I started by eating breakfast beside them to get them used to my presence. They would not accept food from fingers at first, so I placed some of their favorite foods (sunflower, safflower, and millet) on toys and perches where they would normally not find millet. I would eat with them like a flock in the wild. Parrots do not eat with predators. Then I would move my chair closer to them while they were sleeping at night so they did not notice the move. We would eat together. I would talk quietly to them not making eye contact at first. I offered them treats from my hand; weeks went by and they took nothing.

While they were getting to feel more comfortable around me, we played little games like if they blinked, I would blink or if they yawn or stretched, I would do the same. Birds will stretch to say hello. Since I was consistent everyday and they got used to routine, we made progress. One day a breakthrough happened: Dewey took a sunflower seed from my hand. We still would let Dewey and Sierra out everyday, and everyday their confidence grew. They were terrified of hands so I tried offering my shoulder while they were on top of their cage. Of course, Dewey and Sierra would not step-up the first time, but they were starting to notice me and my actions when I cleaned their cage trays and changed their food and water. When they started perching with confidence on their cage tops and the birds’ playgyms, I tried offering my shoulder again; still nothing. Dewey and Sierra started to hang out more with us. I placed paper and magazines on the couch to see if they would chew on them for their nestbox; and they did. I never tried to touch them; we just enjoyed each others company. We were playing together just like birds in the wild. While I was cleaning their trays from their cages, Dewey seemed very interested with the running of the water. So with confidence, I offered my shoulder and said up. He and Sierra jumped on, ran down my arm to my hands, and took a bath under the sink. I still do this everyday. What a breakthrough!

Routine is very important to bonding with a lovebird. I figured out that Dewey and Sierra were scared of fingers, so I closed my hands like a soft fist and offered my arm instead. While saying up, they stepped up on my arm. At their previous owners, I learned that they used to bite very hard. They would bring out the blood. But my wife and I never gave them a chance or a reason to bite; we never pushed them to do anything they did not want to do. That’s how we got progress; by establishing a constant, steady routine. Since we cleaned their cage everyday, they got used to us messing with their stuff. Then, when Sierra is sitting on their eggs, Dewey would still crave the attention and play time. So, he would rush to the door, and I would place my arm in their cage for him to step-up. He now knows the rules; if he wants out, he has to step-up.

I expect more of them now, because they have been with us since August 2006. Your lovebird can live more than 20 years; if you put in the time and get him to trust you again, then you will not even remember what it was like when he was “mean.” Get him used to your home and you; while he is out of his cage, take the next steps. You never know when the breakthrough will happen. Sierra’s first step-up on my fingers was when she was flying and she missed a branch on our ficus tree. She fell on the floor, and I said, “Sierra Baby, I’m here; Step-up,” and she did. That’s when she saw me as a comfort and friend.

Also, here is another technique: when your baby calms down enough to perch on a T stand you could start clicker training. It is like playing a child’s game like “Hot and Cold.” Simply lay your hand on the stand on the opposite side of your lovebird. Show a treat in the direction of your lovebird. If he takes even one step, click, praise, and give him a small treat. If he doesn’t move in the direction of your arm/ hand, simply do nothing (completely ignore him). Try again keeping lessons to only 15 minutes. This is how I trained Louie after I got him to trust me in the same fashion as Dewey and Sierra. If he is bonded to his cage, his reaction is a very normal behavior. Also, lovebirds like other parrots go through a challenging adolescence stage where they challenge their humans, flock, and everything around them.

The Secret of Not Getting Bit By a Hormonal, Territorial but Very Cute Female Lovie

Sierra and Dewey

* Proverbs 22:6 Train up a child in the way he should go: and when he is old, he will not depart from it.
* If your lovebird's bites do hurt the first thing you need to do is check that beak. It might simply just need grooming. It's the difference between a a person with sharp fingernails and well-groomed rounded ones. Lovebirds that need grooming will have little points on the side of their beaks that look like little vampire teeth. So sometimes, your little girl might not mean to bite you hard, it's just her beak is way too sharp.
* Establish a basic routine so surprises can be minimal. Even monthly adventures out of the home or trips to the vet become part of the routine. Routine also teaches a bird confidence. A girl with no confidence will bite quicker than a bird that is secure with her place within the flock; even if it’s just the two of you.
* Teaching tricks, having jobs, and clicker training will keep her mind sharp and she will view you as the flock leader. Birds who know tricks live to please their owners and their rewards.
* Make her forage for her food, giving her a job other than breeding.
* People feed their birds way too much. Giving a bird enough food for all day long is not natural. Birds in the wild: wake-up, fly to the feeding grounds, let their crops empty, and then fly to find more food. My birds have the same routine. They wake-up, play, then fly to their cages to eat breakfast, morning nap, play, afternoon nap, play, eat supper, short evening nap, play, go to bed at 7:30. Birds need a reason to want to go back into their cages either for food, private play, or rest.

* I am at the top of the pecking order, and my birds know it. Be bold and handle them with confidence and with rules. Our babies such as Luna, Sapphire, Mango, Starburst, and Skittles are very bold birds who can run their entire household if given a chance. When we baby sat them, they quickly learned that they can not act like they do at home. When their owners return after vacation, we show them tricks on how not to let your lovebird run your household. For example: they feed the bird way too much thus not having her to look forward to going back into her cage (I never have to chase a bird around the house to get them back into the cage), if you are holding two birds in or on your hands, hold the one you trust more at a higher level than the other. Teach the bird you are not a human playground, and you are not here to tend to their every little need and want. Not letting the bird do what they want all the time, and making them stay on your hand if that’s what you expect.

* I don’t expect to get bitten. The thought never enters my mind. You have already failed even before you have started if you think about bites. Birds can read your body language and it seems as though they can read your thoughts. My middle school music students can play compositions at a high school, lower college level because I have taught them confidence. BTW my students who have birds have never been bitten by their birds either. My birds know the “up” command, and I see nothing wrong with it. It is not forcing a bird when the bird wants to come to you anyways. With smaller birds I let them in the palms of my hands. I have seen the boldest lovebirds return to little babies by using this simple technique.
* Don’t give her the opportunity to bite, ever. In my humble experiences, biting for the most part is a learned response. The more a bird gets to bite, the more she gets to practice, and the more a bird practices the more comfortable they feel using biting to their advantage. If they bite in the cage, let them come out, if they can not be trusted in your clothes or shoulders, don’t let them in there. It’s that easy. Sierra loves to go in my clothes, but I do not let her. Also, Sierra does not use her beak anymore and has completely forgotten how to bite humans.

* Birds should have rules. I might clean their poop all day, but I am not their human slave. Only have them stay on the hand if that’s the only place you can trust them. If they bite your hand, let them only stay on your arm. Our breeders use to be scared of hands, so I had them step-up on my arm while I hid my fingers and thumb by making a soft fist. If they go anywhere else, place them back on their cage or a playground without saying a word. If she is on your hand/ arm and tries to move up, place your other hand like a high five right in front of her. This has stopped my birds in their tracts. If she tries to bite your high five hand, it is ok for you to move your hand slightly that she is standing on to distract her from trying to bite. If she knows tricks, then distract her with one of her tricks. If she continues to not follow the rules, place her on her cage or a playground without saying a word.
* Sometimes you just need to let a bird be a bird. Why does the bird have to be on you for them to be happy? Just let them play on or in their cage, or a playground, look for food, or simply interact with other birds. I very rarely go up to my birds and have them step-up on me. They play and when they want me, they fly to me. When they are finished interacting with me, they fly back into the bird room. When I actually have them step-up, they see it as Christmas and are more willing.
* Playgrounds are not an option. If she has a reason to come out of her cage, then she might have a reason to interact with you also. Also, if she is in breeding mode, let her out of that cage. Get her mind off nesting and out of the nest box, her cage.
* Let other birds teach her how to be a part of the flock. The other birds will teach her how to act around people also. Females tend to be on their best behaviors when they are not alone while on the human.
* Everything should be positive including you coming to the cage, them going back into the cage, them being on you, them being off you.
* People talk too much to their birds and get them way too excited. I have seen my lovebirds have a complete conversation from body language alone. I am actually very quiet around my flock, but when I do say something they listen closer to what I have to say. I have seen too many people talk too much baby talk to their birds and it gets them way to excited to the point where they can not even control themselves. It’s like making a child hyper because they feed off your energy. Also, your female might think you are courting her with all that “singing.”
* Withhold their favorite treat for only special occasions such as trick training, going back to the cage, or checking the nest box. When we check for babies we have conditioned our pairs to see our presence in a positive light. We gently tap the top of the nest box which is their cue to step-out and go to their food bowls. We place seed or millet in their bowls, place a napkin in the nest box's hole, and continue to check their babies. After we remove the napkin, the parents return with a full crop to feed their baby some much needed energy and fat stored in the seeds.

* Clicker training: First click and then give her a treat showing her that the clicker is a promise for reward. Once she understands this, you can move forth to basic and then advanced training. If the female is not interested in stepping-up readily, lure her with her favorite treat and make her lean for it forcing her to walk on your hand. When she does something you like, "Click and Treat." It's like playing a game of hot and cold. If she is hot, click and treat, if she is cold do nothing. Here is a video of Piper and Bailey, Trinkets grandparents!

* Be careful you are not pushing her to do too much. Open beak stance, with possible swaying, is not a good thing. She probably feels threaten and unsure with your presence. Put her in a place in the home where she can see the family activities and get used to your presence. Do not sneak up on her or surprise her accidentally frightening her. Hold her in the palm of your hand if possible. Your palm is warm and soothing to birds, plus they feel that they are back in the nest.
* Concerning cage placement, shy and nervous birds benefit with having one or two sides of the cage being next to a wall. The best thing we ever did for Cody and Mia was placing their cage near the corner of the bird room. Their confidence has grown to new levels since then and they interact with us more.
* Never ask her to step-up with just one finger. You might as well be pointing rudely to her just like if you were pointing at a person. Either use the open palm technique or ask her to step-up while your hand is in a horizontal 4 pattern parallel to her body. When she first starts her baby molt, she will most likely start rubbing her head gently on your fingers. Then you can start by preening her head with the fingers on the hand that she is standing on. This is how you teach small birds to enjoy being preened. If she allows touching already, place your chin on her back. Even with my adult birds, when they are in the palm of my hand I will place my chin on their back then kiss their little heads. This is a very soothing motion to babies because this is what Mommy bird does with her beak in the nest to soothe her little ones.
* Between three and four months your lovebird will go through a beaking phase. It is very much like a teething stage in infants, but it doesn’t hurt. This stage has its pros and cons. It is a great time to introduce new foods and toys, but baby will also start to beak your fingers. Never let him have the chance to develop this habit or he will carry it out for the rest of his life. As soon as he starts to beak your fingers, place a chewable toy such as Bird Candy or Chinese Finger Traps in his mouth. He is looking for negative attention. Simply ignore him with no reaction, calmly say no, and give him something to demolish. You have to explain this to other people visiting your bird also; even if they say they don’t mind the nibbling. The nibbles will turn to bites after six months of age if you don’t intervene then. Lovebirds are as smart as a two year-old child; they will test you. With some discipline and consistency from your part, your baby will pass this testing stage in less than a month.
* It's alright to get females mates. A tame male will teach the female how to be tame also. She will follow his lead.
* Females are not being mean; they are trying to be great mothers. Once we understand that, we will be able to live a more peaceful coherence together. Know when she will bite, and stay 2 steps ahead of her not letting her “practice” biting.

Feeding Schedule and Socialization Goals

Most important supplies: scale made for birds, O-ring syringes, Oxyfresh Cleaning Gel, bottle warmer made for human babies, a brooder that stays between 73-83 F, and Roudybush Handfeeding Formula (consistency of split pea soup to a heavy gravy served between 103-109 F with no dry, solid spots. Nothing should ever be added to the formula, and the formula should have the same thickness consistency from two weeks until weaned.) Brooder Set-up:

2 weeks old: 5 feedings every 4 hours (8:00am, 12:00pm, 4:00pm, 8:00pm, 12:00am.) Many other breeders only feed 4 times every 4 hours the first week, but we do not want the babies crying for food in the middle of the night. Just like human babies, there are small babies (Pixy!) and there are large babies (her brother Jelly Bean!), so the amount of food is going to vary around 3.5-4.5 cc’s. Tamara and I do not say, “Ok baby, you have had 4 ccs, your full!” No, we fill up the babies until their crops resemble a full balloon or when they simply do not want anymore. Feed the babies all at once; competition is your greatest ally. Well-socialization goal: babies should recognize you, have a wonderful feeding response, and have names.

3 weeks old: 4 feedings every 4 hours (8:00am, 12:00pm, 4:00pm, 8:00pm.) Just fill those crops until they look and feel like a full balloon. At 3.5 weeks old, the babies will start to chew on their bedding. This is the time to introduce “big bird” food. Fresh, chewy Avicakes are the perfect introduction to solid food. Avicakes are highly nutritious unlike seed or millet. After babies are fed baby food, place a very small crumb into their mouths. This works great as a birdie pacifier also. We never feed them mashed-up or soft foods for weaning. Starting them on what they will eat as adults is best. After they are eating “big bird” food, we introduce small foot toys and toys they can shred. Well-socialization goal: babies try “big bird” food, recognize your voice, and step-up on your palm to be fed.

4 weeks old: 3 feedings every 6 hours (8:00am, 2:00pm, 8:00pm.) We never drop their feedings to three until we know they are eating the Avicakes on a regular basis. This is the time when we introduce crushed-up Nutri-Berries and a small pellet like Roudybush Crumble. Depending on the size of the baby, they should be receiving around 6 ccs at this point. Once again, feel the crop and if the babies refuse, do not force them to eat. After we feed them baby food, we place them over the solid food bowl. This is the time we introduce a small dish of water also. Well-socialization goal: babies play with toys, eating adult food on a regular basis, and cry out not only for baby food, but for attention also. Some of the older babies at this point have a natural protective instinct of their siblings and territory, so to dilute this trait we lay down on the floor, cuddle, play with them with their toys, and feed them adult food by hand after each feeding. When they have fallen asleep, we place them back into the brooder.

5 weeks old: 2 feedings every 12 hours (8:00am and 8:00pm or 6:00pm if some of the babies are screaming.) At 5.5 weeks of age the babies will start to fly. There first flight is always to us. This is always a true sign that your babies see you more than just the ones who feed you. It is a sign that they love you. This is one of the most awesome milestones for baby’s socialization. This is also the week we introduce seed, because as the babies wean they need that extra burst of energy that the fat in seed has in storage. The fat also fills them up more and helps them strive between feedings. Concerning feedings, some babies at this age take well over 8 ccs of baby food. When we reach 1 feeding per day, they can receive up to as much as 10 ccs. Well-socialization goal: babies fly to you, recognize their names, and are placed in a weaning cage with a tent or cozy to sleep in. The tent needs to be large enough for all the babies.

6 weeks old: 1 feeding per day at 6:00pm or 8:00pm (babies can feed from 7-10 ccs at this point.) If we have a large clutch, 4 or more babies, the prodigies will normally wean during this week. Well-socialization goal: babies are filling up on adult food in the morning, babies want to come out of their weaning cage to fly, cuddle, and most importantly play with toys independently on a playground. Babies should never be on a person all the time when they are outside of their cages. They have to learn independent play and have foraging opportunities.

7 weeks old: A baby should wean at anytime now. If they do not cry for their evening feeding, then do not give it to them. At 7 weeks, we introduce cooked foods, fruits, sprouts, and veggies. The babies will see the adults eating the food and will follow their lead. Many breeders and pet stores separate their babies in individual cages so they will not bond with each other. This is one of the worst things they can do for a baby, especially one that has not weaned yet. Birds need that competition of the food bowl, thus learning to eat on their own and whenever food is presented. Lovebirds that also learn to compete for food will naturally compete for your attention also thus making trust issues virtually nonexistent. Well-socialization goal: the babies step-up from inside their cage, and the babies are excited to see you. Babies need a reason to want to come out of their cages such as a playground. That, plus routine, is the key to a well-socialize parrot and not one that is caged bound and only finds security in the confounds of their bars.

8 weeks old: Weaned. If you decide to clip, never clip a bird before they wean or they might not ever see a reason to get off the baby food. This is nature’s way: stop begging, get off Momma’s fat baby food, and fly! Even though socialization starts as early as two weeks, true socialization actually starts the week babies wean. Too many times we have seen and heard stories of birds that were handfed, but they turned wild. It happens during this week. The babies no longer need you as a source of food, so you need to show them that they still need you for other reasons: love, another source of fun, security, and socialization. During this week, most birds forgot you ever handfed them. All handfeeding does is that it gets a bird use to the presence of humans. So during the week your babies wean, the most important thing any of us can do is to continue a balance of training, positive reinforcement, cuddle time, and independent play. Why is a well-socialized parrot such an important goal? The simple answer is because they will live with people. If a bird is truly trust worthy, affectionate, and socialized, then chances are their humans will see them more than just birds in a cage, but as true family members. Thus, living a full and enrich life in a human household. Well-socialization goal: babies enjoy a great head rub and have first full vet check from an Avian Veterinarian.

~Rodney Money True Love Aviary

Why "Breaking the Lovebird Stereotype"?

There are a few people out there who may not understand what we mean with this statement.

Lovebirds have gotten a little bit of a bad rap. This is NOT to say that every lovebird is this way, but you know how stereotypes are..... Here are just a few things we hear when it comes to the stereotypes out there:

Lovebirds are aggressive.
All female lovebirds are hormonal.
Maybe they don't make good pets.
Lovebirds bite for no reason.

The list goes on and on.
Mainly, stereotypes are created when people start making generalizations about things without the full spectrum of possibilities out there. For example, you wouldn't think any of the examples I gave were true if you met our flock.

Did you know that we answer 4-5 emails a day on Gmail or YouTube about lovebird/small bird problems/questions? We are happy to do it even though it is time consuming. You see, we feel like that we can break some of those stereotypes just through sharing our experiences, past and present.

If you don't agree with us, no problem. We advise based on what we know and we are always still learning!

Top 11 Bird Rules:

1. If you like it, it's mine.
2. If I can reach it, it's mine.
3. If it's in my beak, it's mine.
4. If I can take it from you, it's mine.
5. If I had it a little while ago, it's mine.
6. If it's mine, it must never appear to be yours in any way.
7. If I'm chewing something, all the pieces are mine.
8. If it looks like mine, it's mine.
9. If I saw it first, it's mine.
10. If you have something and you put it down, it automatically becomes mine.
11. If you give it to me, and you have one, I want yours instead (because it's mine).

Quotes

"Lovebirds are just the Jack Russell Terriers of the parrot world." ~Tamara

"They are either in play mode or sleepy cuddly mode. You won't really find them in between. Maybe on a few occasions..." ~Rodney

"I never thought I would be a lovebird person. But man, I wouldn't give them up for anything!" ~Rodney

"Lovebirds are addictive." ~Tamara

"Lovebirds are big birds in little bodies." ~Rodney

"True love is telling your spouse they have bird poop on their shoulder." ~Rodney

"Birds are like potato chips, you can't stop at one."

Why We Do NOT Recommend Grit

This is a highly debatable topic, but our understanding is that grit is only needed in birds who do not hull their seeds. Most finches, for example, eat the seed whole and use a small amount of grit to help digest the seed.

However, if anyone were to look into our flock's bowls, you would find hulls from the seeds that are uneaten. You see, most hook bills remove the outer casing and just eat the meat of the seed. They don't need assistance in digesting the meat of the seed. Also, with a well-balanced diet, birds don't need grit as a source of Calcium.

Unfortunately, we have heard of many birds, especially budgies/parakeets, who have compacted their crops full of grit. This can cause complications because the grit won't digest, the bird will stop eating, or can even die.

Therefore, we do NOT recommend grit.

(Our Board-Certified Avian Vet would concur on this!)

Why "Real" Handfed Lovebird Babies?

Our babies speak for themselves. If you catch us out at the pet store, we will usually have at least one of our babies with us. People are constantly amazed at how sweet they are. Lovebirds have a bad rap, and we want to break it! Our lovies may cost a bit more than a typical retail pet store, but that's because we put more time and love into making our lovebirds pets, not just cage birds. You see, the ones at the pet store are usually raised by their bird parents and are wild. We remove our babies to teach them to love and recognize us. That's how they become tame and well-socialized! Thus, you gain a companion, friend, and family member when you take in one of our loving babies!

Small Scale Breeder

We only have two breeder pairs. We are definitely a small scale breeder! We don't make our living on breeding.

Do you know why we raise and sell lovebirds? Well, #1 we do love lovebirds in general, but also, #2 we rescued our two pairs and they lay eggs! We certainly can't keep all the babies, so we find the right homes for them so that they can have the life they deserve!

Rodney and myself really just want to be a different type of breeder. Oh, there are breeders like us out there, but not as many as we wish there were!

Wing Clipping

Lovebirds are very independent, bossy, curious, and sometimes clumsy. We, personally, clip our birds' wings to keep them safe, almost from themselves.

We have noticed a difference in the tameness of a lovebird whose wings are clipped. They are more "dependent" in a good way. You don't want a tame lovebird pet completely independent of you. Our birds have a good balance of independence and dependance on us (dependance in the sense of wanting attention, to play, etc.).

Clipping wings creates a sense of security for us as the owners. It is easier for us to take our birds places like the pet store. Now, we are not recommending that you carry your lovebird outside unprotected by a cage or carrier. It is too risky with hawks and other predators who could pick your little birds off (Hawks can be aggressive). The other sense is the freedom to leave your birds out of their cages and not have to worry about them flying out the door, into ceiling fans, or into boiling water (or even into a batch of chocolate brownie mix, which BeBe did one time. Believe me, I freaked- chocolate is deadly to birds! Ask me about it sometime).

For pets, we recommend wing clipping. They are more likely to live longer lives. The #1 causes of death for lovebirds, unfortunately, are accidents, not old age.

Roudybush Handfeeding Formula (III)

This is the handfeeding formula we use. We used to use Exact Handfeeding formula before we were advised by our vet, Dr. Burkett, that Roudybush formula was way better for babies.

Wow, did we sure notice an immediate change in our babies! We, at first, were puzzled why a few babies in the first clutch we switched over were crying in the middle of the night. We were feeding them the same amount of Roudybush that we had with Exact.

In discussing the change further with Dr. Burkett, we discovered that the babies weren't getting enough food! Why was that? Well, the Exact Handfeeding formula did not digest very well and would stay in the crops for a long time (this can create complications alone). The Roudybush formula was actually digesting and the crop emptying faster!

The babies plumage and health has definitely improved since switching to this formula. We highly recommend it!

Handfeeders: You can get it here

Brooder Set-up

Why spend $500 for a brooder? It's almost ridiculous! Our brooder is a simple Critter Keeper that we have outfitted to be a brooder. To heat it, we use a Critter Keeper light through the top (during the day) and a heating pad under it (at night). We have a thermometer in there as well to monitor the temperature. When the babies are really little we layer Dri-Dek, paper towels, and white CareFresh Bedding (for insulation) - listed from top to bottom. We spread a little CareFresh around them for warmth and include a small "puppy toy" that we so delightfully call "Binky" which looks like a little parrot for them to snuggle against. When they start to move around a bit, we remove the extra bedding and put some toys in for them to explore. During the weaning process, we put in crumbled food at first and then include water later. As they get older, the layering gets thinner to keep them in the brooder as they learn to climb out. Around 5-6 weeks, we move them into a cage with low perches and a Snuggle Hut to sleep in, but keep the heating pad under the weaning cage.

Lately, we are trying a new "bedding." We've recently had trouble with the Dri-Dek (though we still find it useful). The holes are not too big, but just big enough for a little bird foot to get stuck. We've never had this problem until this clutch, so for grip, we have layered shelf liner on top of the dry deck. It works quite well and cleans so easily! By the way, good grip is important for babies to prevent splayed legs. We rotate in two different cuttings to get one completely dry between cleanings. (See pictures under Jan. 8th for views of the shelf liner layer.)

Cleaning the brooder is very important. We clean it at every feeding, making sure to remove all food, poop, and wet paper/bedding.

During the weaning process we allow our older birds to demonstrate eating, playing, etc.

All in all, we are continually discovering new things about raising babies and new ways of weaning them. We are kept on our toes with every clutch!

Banding

We do not band our birds. There are many horror stories out there about birds feet being amputated, etc because of a band getting caught, etc. It's a personal decision that we've made.

I'm not putting banding down as it can be a way to recover lost birds and identify breeders. However, for our birds, as small as they are, we feel it is more of a risk for them. Lovebirds are also so active that it is easy for them to get in trouble with a band on their leg. Many veterinarians even recommend that if you get a banded bird, that you have the band removed (by a vet of course!).

There are other ways of "banding" your birds. Many companies now have microchips that are so small that that could be a better option. We leave that up to the people that adopt our birds though!

Weigh your Birds!

Description:

This is the best scale we have used. It comes with an AC adapter, a perch securely mounted to a platform, a separate removable platform, and weighs in 1 gram increments.

You can find scales that are priced lower; but you will not find one better. Just think, if you bought a postal scale, what would the bird perch on. You would also need to purchase an adapter. This scale is made for the bird person.

You should weigh your bird regularly and keep a log. This way, you can provide important information to your veterinarian, and you may spot health problems earlier.

This is what our log looks like:

You can get it Here!

Synergy Labs Super Clot 0.75oz.

Caiques as Pets

Photo from caiquesarepeopletoo.homestead.com (Trouper and Ripley)

Caiques
By Rodney Money
trueloveaviary@gmail.com

Tamara: “Are you sure we are going the right way?”
Rodney: “Yes, I actually looked up the directions this time, plus, I MapQuested it.”
Tamara: “Hey! Is that it?”
Rodney: “Well, telling by the parrots on the sign that says “Birdie Boutique” in front of the house, I would say so.”
Tamara: “Smart butt.”
Rodney: “Yeah, I know. (LOL.)”

This was the conversation Tamara and I had on our very first adventure to the Birdie Boutique in Durham, NC. We were engaged, broke, and without jobs. I was doing my student teaching for music at Apex High School, and because I knew birds would be in our life after marriage, I was looking for the perfect opportunity to immerse Tamara into the world of bird ownership. The moment we walked across the threshold, the sights and sounds of continents from all around the world resounded in our ears. Cockatoos, cockatiels, and budgies originally from Australia, African greys and Lovebirds with their roots in Africa, and from the New World: macaws, conures, amazons, and a very outgoing Maximilian’s Pionus that thought I was her Daddy. I can still feel those sharp, baby claws on my hand refusing to let go to this day.

We were excited to see that the Birdie Boutique had an open play area that allowed guests to play and help in the socialization of their birds. On the playground, our eyes caught the flashes and hues of emerald greens, tangerine oranges blended with shimmering yellows, and white as the pure, driven snow constantly in motion. As we got closer we saw that it was not just one parrot, but actually two very playful, acrobatic clowns working as one as they manipulated a toy made of wood and leather. We placed our hands near them not meaning to interrupt their play, but as soon as they saw us a new game has just begun; and Tamara and I were the main attraction.

“What kind of birds are these?” Tamara asked.
“Caiques,” I said as Tamara still looked puzzled.
“Pronounce that again, ‘Sweets,’” asked Tamara once again.
“(Ky-EEK’s) my ‘Love,’” I explained.
“Very cool, and so sweet and playful,” she said as she was already plotting on how to take them home.
In disappointment, due to our current status, I explained to her, “Right birds, wrong timing.”
“One day we will have birdies,” I thought, “one day soon.”

Every time I think of caiques I think of my very first meeting and lecture at the Raleigh-Durham Cage Bird Society. With pen and paper in hand, I was trying to digest every word concerning the topic of Nutrition for Our Birds, but in that instant a caique decided to initiate me into the club. As I took notes in my journal, he was wondering why the human got to play with all the cool toys. So he jumped on my lap, grabbed the leather binding holding together all my papers, and proceeded to dismember them. While I willingly gave up my journal to my new friend, more like to his beak, I signaled to his owner that it was completely all right. I was deeply honored that he decided to spend his time with me destroying my personal belongings. Because the caique welcomed me that day, I have been back to the meetings ever since.

Because of their playful, inquisitive, and “always on the go” attitudes, caiques have been called the closest thing to New World Lories. These little, animated clowns are also the parrot version of the hopping kangaroo; often preferring hopping and climbing over flying. They develop extremely strong feet and can be especially obsessed with foot toys. Although their diet consists more of a parrot diet, their high energy levels can rival that of a lory or lorikeet. Just like a young puppy, a caique loves to wrestle and roll a round on their back with their toys, owners, and even other birds. This rough-and-tumble play often surprises people when they catch their caiques wrestling on the bottom of their cages just like two Jack Russell Terriers. Watching them play can be more entertaining than going to the movies.

Caiques that are kept in pairs often act like siblings. If there is a dispute over a toy, treat, or a favorite perch, they will normally make-up and are back being friends in no time. In fact, caiques are known to remain tame even if they have a cage mate as long as there is daily playtime and proper socialization from their owners. Even with all this energy, they share a characteristic often found in the play of Lovebirds. They play hard, but eventually they crash, falling asleep like little babies. Owners have found this to be the perfect time for cuddles, snuggles, and the ever popular head rub. Caiques have even been known to sleep on their backs scaring some owners half to death only to realize that their baby was just acting silly.

These South American little wind-up toys are considered to be a medium sized parrot with a length of 9 inches and weighing somewhere between 170 to 190 grams. They are good as a single pet, but more entertaining in pairs, and do quite well living in apartments. However, some individual birds can have a harsh shrill resembling a whistle. The two main species most commonly found in captivity are the White-bellied Pionites leucogaster and the Black-headed caique Pionites melanocephala. The White-bellied caique we see mostly in the USA is the Yellow-thighed caique Pionites leucogaster xanthomeria. This subspecies has obviously yellow thighs in compared to the nominate race that has green thighs. The Yellow-thighed caique is often referred to as a White-bellied caique. The White-bellied caique is reported to be a bit calmer than the Black-headed caique and a little less high-strung, but calmer and less high-strung is a relative term when taking about the exuberant personality of the caique. With good care, a caique can live more than 20 years in captivity.

Caiques can become stubborn and may get out of control if they get too excited. Many of a parrot enthusiast has reported that the worst bite that they have ever received came not from a macaw or a cockatoo, but from a caique. These mischievous rascals tend not to be shy around strangers, especially if they are seduced by toys or treats, but people need to always stay a step ahead of these intelligent birds. A caique’s temperament has been compared to that of a Scarlet Macaw. Some caiques have been known to be very sweet when picked up, but bite fiercely out of deviance when being put down. Also, caution should be used when introducing a caique to new clothing, hair style, or flashy jewelry. The same bird who seems fearless and could take on the world one second, could suddenly exhibit extreme fear over an inanimate object. Caiques tend to be gregarious amongst their own kind, but can be aggressive when introduced to lesser dominating species. However, I know of at least one household that is not run by the caique, but by a Pacific parrotlet.

Caiques have healthy appetites and can go through a bowl of food in minutes. So an owner needs to make sure that their caique is not losing weight due to not enough food in comparison to their high level of activity. Most caiques love water and are prone to frequent baths even after just receiving a bath. Like conures, caiques benefit from having a tub in which they can bathe, and some even relish “leaf bathing” just like budgies. For one caique a cage measuring 23” wide by 32” long by 64” in height is the absolute minimum with the bar spacing of 5/8” to 3/4”. Larger is always better, and playgrounds outside the cage are a necessity. With a playground, toys, and foraging opportunities, caiques can be very self-entertaining avoiding driving their owners crazy with constant, demanding attention. Caiques are always on the move and tend to use their owners like a moving playground instead of a perch.

Because of their high intelligence, trick training is a great way to keep the mind of a caique busy. Plus, it is easy to entice them because of their love of treats. Some of the most extreme tricks are inspired by play. One example is when owners spin their caiques round and round on a string or piece of leather while they’re just holding on by their feet. This is truly a hilarious sight especially when you hear actual laughter coming from the bird. Black-headed caique Elvis, the mascot of the Birdie Boutique and the coolest caique of all, loves performing this signature trick in front of a live audience every chance he gets. Other favorite tricks of caiques include: playing dead,
shooting basketball through a hoop, retrieving objects, any trick that highlights their love of hopping either up and down or from one place to another, and mimicking different words or sounds. Even though caiques are not known for their talking ability, some can learn a few words. Caiques are better imitating sounds of objects found within the home. Like African greys, owners have to make sure that their caiques don’t pick up annoying habits like imitating an alarm clock or the beeping of a smoke detector.

Even though caiques are high energy birds, they tend to do very well in calm and peaceful households. They act as though they are feathered sponges saturated by the peace that surrounds them. With their white, little bellies and their bright shining, often devious and cunning eyes, a caique will always stand out in a flock of other birds. And when onlookers observe people wearing sweaters ornamented with holes and tears, these patient and forgiving owners will always proclaim when asked the question of ownership, “Yes, I have a caique.”

BeBe Calls a Meeting

BeBe decided to hold a special meeting with the entire flock.
BeBe: "We all love Daddy and Mommy so very much! We need to do something very special to show them how much we love them. Does anybody have any good ideas?"

Hedwig: "I could let Mia bite my foot and make it bleed all over the place again. They seem to really enjoy patching me up and giving me a bath! Lovebirds like us like to play rough."

Dewey: "Hedwig! Are you freakn' kidding me? Nobody wants you bleeding all over our new sunroom again, and I especially don't want you to bleed all over my beautiful feathers. Just thinking about it makes me want to preen. And by the way, how many times do we have to tell you, 'YOU ARE NOT A LOVEBIRD!' You are a budgie!"

Hedwig: "Oh yeah, I keep forgetting that."

Baby Tootsie: "I could let them start hand feeding me again. They just LOVED feeding me night and day for weeks, and weeks, and weeks, and..."

Ashlee: "I could let them pretend they run the household, he, he."

BeBe: "Everyone had great suggestions, but lets just throw our toys, food, and poop more on the new carpet. They seem to really enjoy vacuuming and scrubbing the carpet on their hands and knees since they do it everyday. Everyone agree?"
Mia (Medium Seagreen), Evee (Dutch Blue), Cody (Medium Normal), and Hedwig (Blue Dilute Budgie): "Agree!"

Why We Feed the Feed We Feed

by Rodney Money

I know that when it comes to feeding our birds the best diet possible, it is a great debate. Some people say pellets (“We can do better than what they do in the wild.”) while others say a more natural diet (“They should eat like they do in the wild.”); or even a combination of the two. The problem is that nobody truly knows. I know we think we know, but if we did, would we be debating sprouts vs. seeds vs. pellets, Roudybush vs. Harrison, or do we need bee pollen and palm oil for supplements? There is not a person who has written the law stating: parrots need 2 broccoli, 1 yam, a table spoon of seed, 14 Pretty Bird pellets, and 3 grapes to be completely healthy. This is just not going to happen. But, the search for the "perfect" avian diet is a fun and rewarding battle; we are so much better off now than we were even in the 90's. My knowledge comes from 20 years of studying parrots, trying every diet possible that has come through the ages, and talking with great avian vets such as Dr. Burkett.

I am not saying my diet is the best for parrots; especially since I believe different parrots need different diets, (ex. Hyacinths, Lories, Black Palms, Eclectus, Keas, etc.) But I base my diet on comparing how my birds look compare to other birds in their same species; it works for me. I am not talking about showing birds; I am just talking about how one bird looks like when compared to another of the same genus or species. I believe that if your bird's feathers are tight, beautiful, and shine from within, (even powder like birds like cockatoos, cockatiels, or Mealy Amazons can "shine") their eyes are bright and clear, and their droppings are normal, then you have a diet that works for you. Here is what I feed my birds every day.

Nutri-Berries and Avicakes: They both provide balanced omega 3 & 6 fatty acids which help the immune system respond to disease and to precancerous conditions. Plus, they provide excellent foraging enrichment. When I got into parrots, most of the large birds in pet stores were wild-caught birds in poor health and ratty feathers. I saw a picture of a 30 year cockatiel and a Blue-fronted Amazon that were fed Nutri-Berries their entire life. Both birds made my jaw drop. I decided to try Nutri-Berries with my wild-caught, mature Orange-winged Amazon. The results were amazing, and I never turned back. With weaning my babies, it is hard to beat Avicakes. It is chewy, has both seeds and pellets, and it taste great. Our babies wean faster because of Avicakes. Many people believe that Nutri-Berries and Avicakes are simply treats, but they are wrong. I have personally called the Lafeber Company, and I have complete trust in their product.

Roudybush or Harrison's pellets: Why? Simply because Dr. Burkett says so. I know it doesn't taste as good as Nutri-Berries (my birds have told me so), but my birds still eat it and benefit from the nutrition that it provides. I refuse to use colored pellets. I feel that my energetic lovebirds do not need any more sugar or artificial "stuff."

Sprouts: This is as close to a natural diet as you are going to get. This is the main diet of one of the best breeding facilities in the world: Aves International. Sprouts look like seed, but have more nutrition than fruits or vegetables. I do feed my birds fruits and vegetables, but only as treats, not as a staple part of their diet. Some vegetables can cause the body to not be able to absorb calcium. Also, Dr. Burkett has gave a talk about nutrition stating, "You can feed a bird broccoli all day long, and it will still have a vitamin A deficiency.” Although fruit does contain vitamin C, fruit also contains a lot of natural sugar; once again, my lovebirds are hyper enough. Bird Talk and other publications now talk about limiting fruit in the diet, although some birds may benefit from fruit more like Lories, Hanging Parrots, or Fig Parrots.

Le Grass Cafe (aka wheatgrass): Looking for greens in your diet, this is all you need: natural wheat grass that you can grow easily in your own home. Just add warm water. According to www.birdieboutique.com, "Wheatgrass contains many elements that keep your bird healthy and happy. Along with 16 Vitamins and 13 Minerals, wheatgrass also contains Chlorophyll, Essential Amino Acids, Enzymes and other fundamental nutrients which can cure anemia, improve blood circulation, regenerate the liver, as well as keep your bird's feathers healthy and lustrous. Chlorophyll is prevalent in wheatgrass. It benefits the entire body by improving the supply of oxygen to the circulatory system. It also helps detoxify the liver, and prevents Fatty Liver Syndrome, caused by seed only diets. Besides chlorophyll, wheatgrass also contains essential Enzymes. Enzymes aid in the digestion of food, and are essential in the chemical processes that turn food into energy. Enzymes are only available from live foods. Wheatgrass is also high in choline, magnesium, and potassium, which work together to revitalize your bird's liver from damage caused by diets high in fat." Enough said.

Beak Appetít and Crazy Corn with added frozen vegetables: Warm, good food that parrots love. They are easy to cook, add great variety, and simply taste good. Beak Appetít claims that Crazy Corn adds cattle grade corn as fillers in their diet. I believe this, because since they have stated that, Crazy Corn has not advertised in Bird Talk Magazine. I find this very interesting. So when I do feed Crazy Corn to my birds, I supplement it with frozen veggies that are high in vitamin A as claim on the package. It is funny that my lovebirds will eat the cooked veggies first, especially the corn, instead of the Crazy Corn.

Seed: only as a treat, but it is great for weaning babies. Since babies need extra fat, seed is great during the weaning process; especially when they are begging but really don't need the baby food. Simply give them some seed; it satisfies their need for high fat content.

Water: Filtered or bottled; I do not trust disgusting, city water. Especially, since the rust partials and chemicals turn my shower curtain red. I have to bleach my curtain every three months.

When I worked for an animal shelter, I had to learn a lot of information in a short time. One thing that I learned is that most people over feed their pets. Dr. Burkett states on his website, "If a cockatiel eats a whole grape, it is the same relativity as a human eating nearly 500 grapes." In the morning, I feed my birds 1 Nutri-Berry, 1 Avicake, and just a pinch of Roudybush. I divide the food up and hide their food all over their cages, toys, and playgrounds (this keeps them busy while I am working.) In the evenings, I feed them the cooked food with veggies, sprouts, or other treats like a pitch of seed or wheatgrass. At night when I put them to bed, I just place another pinch of Roudybush in there. At each feeding, I will clean the bowl. We change their water at least 6 times a day even if it's not dirty; I just feel that they might need their beverage refreshed.

Once again, I am not saying that this is the best diet for the majority of parrots, but it has worked for me for more almost 20 years with a number of birds including: budgies, cockatiels, lovebirds, conures, quakers, parrotlets, pionus, amazons, cockatoos, and greys. With these diets, a bird does not need any other supplements. In fact, a bird that is over supplemented with vitamins can also endanger its health. I feel that these are the foods that have lasted the test of time, and they deserve a second look from the most discerning of bird owners.

The Story of BeBe

I never realized that there was something missing in my life. I was shocked when I realized it was my lovie, BeBe. You see, I knew when I got married that I was marrying a parrot person. I had never owned a parrot in my life! I was under complete misconceptions about parrots in general. Then, we were approached with a decision to accept one of the smallest parrots into our family. Honestly, I had no idea what I was getting into and the love that I would experience for so small a life.

BeBe was a wedding present to my husband and I. He became part of our family in mid-October 2005. He was about 3 months old, but not yet weaned. The story goes that at the home of the breeders, BeBe had actually died. He got too cold and the man of the house saved BeBe by reviving him. BeBe had been almost weaned at that point, but reverted back to his baby stages and wouldn’t get out of them until he was almost 6 months old.

Some people would call BeBe spoiled. I would merit saying, instead, that he is extremely spoiled, well, and extremely loved. We consider him our child, so, in essence, we are normal parents in wanting to give BeBe the best life. People noticed a difference in him right away. Suddenly, we were breaking the bad rap that lovebirds had gotten. The exposure of sweet, loving, playful lovebirds was coming out through our very own baby.

BeBe has always had the most awesome toys. His cage is a plethora of stimulation. However, he remains outside of his cage most of the time. He loves his Penn-Plax playground and Hide-N-Peek Ball especially. Some people might call us extravagant in how we spoil our birds. I just call it a good investment into a long and happy life with them.

People are impressed with BeBe. Though he is small in size, he still stands out in a crowd of other birds. He knows a number of tricks and also how to get into trouble! He prefers to eat off of our plate and go down our shirts. That doesn’t quite work out when we have guests. In one instance, we had a couple over that we were friends with. I was called to rescue BeBe when he went down the shirt of the female guest!

He loves to give kisses. I suspect that if given the chance, he would just kiss me all day. If I ask him if he loves me, he makes a kissing noise at me. Sometimes you will catch him kissing every person he visits when we take him out. Another way he shows his affection for us is by regurgitating on us. Most of the time, it is him going through the motions rather than really anything coming up.

He loves to play “Where’s BeBe?” which is basically a version of Peek-a-boo. He has a great, unique call when he comes out and I say, “There’s BeBe!” It was that call that helped reunite us when he accidentally flew out the door.

After his first molt, we decided to let him keep his flight feathers for a little while. That was until I frightened him when I was putting a box outside my front door. Never in my life, have I been so upset and scared. He took off out and around our apartment building out of my sight. I dashed down the stairs and started calling his name in hysterics. Then I heard the most beautiful sound. He called back to me. Soon, BeBe was back in my arms. I truly didn’t realize how much I loved him until I almost lost him. Needless, to say, I was truly blessed to have him back as many people are not so fortunate.

BeBe loves to snuggle. He loves doing his tricks. One of the funniest antics he has is when he imitates a helicopter. He makes the chopping sound and moves around in circles. He also likes to imitate a circus elephant by trying to balance himself on a ball. He loves to play fetch, of course, as we “fetch” and he throws. We’ve been working on one trick for a year now, and I finally think he’s got it down. I ask him if he has fleas, and he pulls his little agile leg over his wing and scratches his head. Of course, his favorite rewards are verbal praise and head rubs!

We decided recently to share our little blessing by raising lovebirds with a similar demeanor. BeBe’s true quality comes out in how he is an example to the new babies. He pays attention to them and cares about them, even so much as to try and regurgitate to them. Many of our new babies have weaned faster by watching BeBe and his actions. He cares so much for other birds that he sometimes risks his own life to visit with birds much bigger than him! We all know, however, that lovebirds are big birds in little bodies anyways.

Most of all, BeBe has taught me how to love deeper and be more patient. We are his flock, his family, his mate. He has given me a new reason to get up early every morning, to play more, and has taught me how to be a better person. I think it is all in learning to love and care for the smallest of deliveries into our lives.

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Wednesday, February 27, 2008

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